Page 4

(19)

Take a black magic marker and color the bottom edge of the blade. Then place the blade on a flat surface and use a drill bit to scribe a line along the length of the edge. I use a 5/64 inch bit when working with a 3/32 inch blade. The line will be slightly off center. Flip the blade and do the same to the other side. You should be left with a thin solid black line in the center of the blade.

(20)

Now grind a 45 degree edge on each side of the blade down to the scribed lines. This will serve as your guide when grinding the rest of the bevels. To support the blade, I hold the tang with vice grips. I wrap a piece of leather around the tang to keep from scratching it up. Once you have your 45 degree edges ground, proceed to grind from the bottom edge to the black edge of the blade. Be careful not to grind past the back of the blade or the scribed lines at the edge.

 

(21)

You can see by this photo that I’m not the best at grinding a clean transition between the blade’s bevel and its tang. That’s ok though, because I know how to use a file. A clean line between point A and B is needs to be filed into the blade. First clamp a piece of wood into the vice, and then clamp the blade to the piece of wood. Use safe files to file a clean transition as seen in the third photo. Try to bring the filed lines all of the way to the top of the blade, but try not to file deeper than the top edge.

 

(22)

Fit the blade and spring up again on the board to make sure everything fits well. I ended up grinding the tip of the blade off, so I had to go back and grind the spring so that everything would fit back up. Prior to heat treating the spring and tang of the blade need to be flat sanded to remove any burs. Flat sand each side of the spring as demonstrated before. You will not be able to flat sand the blade in the same manner because it is no longer flat. Rub both sides of the tang on the sandpaper as seen in the last photo. Do both sides, and take care to sand them evenly.

 

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