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I usually glue the bone scales to the knife before I pin them down. Take super glue gel and cover the surface if the liner. The gel helps seal any cracks that may be between the liner and the bone. I put a pin through the bone and the liner to make sure that the bone is lined up. This next part has to be done fast…. Press the bone firmly down to the liner, remove the rod, and wipe the excess glue away. Be sure not to leave your finger, or anything, in place to long or it will be stuck. Trust me on this. I use to use epoxy for this step. Epoxy gives you a longer working time, but it sometimes warps the liners when it dries.

Once everything is dry, you will probably have to drill the holes in the liner again to remove the dried glue. Next, take a cone shaped Dremel bit and countersink all of the holes on the outside of the liners. You will also need to countersink the two small holes on the inside of the liners.

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Place a 1/16 inch brass pin through the small hole in the liner and clip it off. Do this at each end of each liner. I usually leave the exposed length of the pins about twice as long as the pins width. Take the flat face of a ball-peen hammer and give each of the pins a good smack. Make sure the pins are in the center, and take care not to hit the surface of the bone. This smack with the hammer will make the pins swell in the holes so that they will stay in place as we grind them down.

 

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Take the side of the knife to the disk grinder and grind the edges of the pins down to about ½ as long as the pin is wide. Be careful not to let the disk hit the bone or the inside of the liner. With the peen end if the hammer, gently peen the ends of the pin down. The secret here is to go slow and easy. I usually start off by peening the top surface. Then, as I peen the bottom surface, the peening will usually pull the head of the pin on the top surface nice and tight. Once you get the pins peened, flat sand the bottom of the liners to flatten the pin heads and to remove any super glue or scratches.

 

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Put the knife back together and grind the outside edges down for the last time. What you want to do here is grind the liner, bolsters, bone, spring, and blade down flush with each other. I do this on a 320 grit belt. Make sure that the ends of the knife are rounded nice and smooth. You will have to remove the blade to grind the blade end of the knife. Take the knife apart and flat sand all parts to remove any burs. We now need to sand the outside of the spring and the top of the blade. Clamp these parts up in the vice and sand them smooth as seen in the second two pictures.

 

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Put the knife together again and make sure that everything fits up and works correctly. Use nickel silver pins through the bolsters, and use a brass pin through the center of the spring. Cut the pins off as we did earlier, but you don’t have to smack these pins with the hammer yet. The pins will stay in place because of the load on the spring. Take the knife to the disk grinder and grind the pins down to a length of about ½ of the pin’s width. Peen the back and center pin down as we did earlier, but DO NOT peen the blade’s pivot pin at this time. Make sure that the bolster pin is peened well and that it completely fills its hole. When we later sand the bolster pins down, you should not be able to see the pin at all.

 

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